Wag the Oxtail: Spanish Rabo de Toro (Bull’s Tail Stew)
Somehow it turns out luxurious every time — from the most humble ingredients
Rabo de Toro always seemed to me like a restaurant food. It was difficult to make, you had to seek out a bull’s tail somehow, and it probably takes forever. Well it turns out I was wrong on all counts (except for the time issue), and this dish, which originates in Spain in the bars surrounding the bull fighting arenas, is impossibly rich — the best example I know of peasant food (well maybe except for Broken Eggs, which I wax poetic about all the time).
The Origins Of Rabo De Toro
Spanish bull tail stew (found on most menus as rabo de toro estofado) is one of Spain’s most typical dishes.
It actually dates back to Roman times, and rabo de toro is actually an Andalusian creation, allegedly inspired in Córdoba. Traditionally made after the bullfights, the dish spread throughout the rest of Spain, and is especially popular in Madrid where bullfights are still popular today.
Many bars surrounding the Plaza de Toros in Madrid serve braised bull tail, although they are no longer able to use the tail of the just killed bull. Each restaurant has its own special recipe for Spanish bull tail stew, some using red wine, others opting for Andalusian sherry, or even a bit of brandy.
The bull tail needs to be braised (cooked slowly over low heat) because it is extremely bony, fatty, and tough. But once it cooks long enough, it becomes so tender that it nearly dissolves in your mouth.
Here is my favorite Spanish rabo de toro recipe, which is basically a mix and match of existing recipes. Cooking rabo de toro takes a lot of patience, but if you wait long enough the rewards are delicious, and the house will smell insanely good all day.
Rabo de Toro de Conil de la Frontera (Oxtail Stew, Conil Style)
Ingredients
A bull tail They usually come cut up in sections. If yours doesn’t, ask your butcher to do it.
A bottle of red wine that you would drink. Tempranillo works well and stays in the Spanish theme.
2-3 carrots, chopped
1 red pepper, chopped
2 stalks of celery, chopped
1 onion, chopped
1 small can of tomatoes
4-5 cloves of garlic, minced
6-8 Shiitake mushrooms (optional)
Herbs like rosemary, thyme, and oregano, and cumin (I use about a teaspoon of each)
1/2 cup olive oil
Beef broth as needed (at least 2 cups)
Salt and pepper to season (be generous)
Method
Start by seasoning the oxtail and browning the tail pieces in olive oil. They usually come cut up into segments, so this is easy in batches.
Remove and then add all the vegetables and herbs to soften. Once they’ve cooked for about 6-8 minutes, add, the oxtail back, then cover with about 1/2 the bottle of red wine and at least 2 cups of beef broth.
Add tomatoes — mash them up a bit, and the mushrooms if you’re using them.
Bring to a boil and then reduce the heat to medium low, covered. Cook for at least four hours. Take the cover off for the last 30 minutes to thicken slightly.
Notes
Buttery mashed potatoes are the perfect compliment to this dish, served in a bowl to collect the juices. Sprinkle some parsley on top if you’ve got it. It not, no worries.
You don’t have to add the mushrooms, but they add a nice umami to an already umami rich dish.